内衣 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	内衣
品名（英）	Underdress
入馆年号	2006年，2006.29.1
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1817 - 公元 1827
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这款内衣介于古典主义时期（柱状廓形）和折衷浪漫主义（裙摆形式蓬勃发展）之间。这款连衣裙采用纯白色纯棉制成，下摆饰有英国刺绣，上身接缝处饰有精美的自滚边。最初被归类为成品连衣裙，因为它的袖子结构完整，做工精细，它更有可能打算穿在另一件透明的连衣裙下。连衣裙完全是手工缝制的，裙子的前后拼接缝合在一起后，下摆上方的水平褶皱是精心完成的。这种束缚是该时期内衣的常见特征，并作为一种装饰手段，在不切割材料的情况下缩短裙子的长度。通过加固衬裙或裙子的下周，褶皱也加强了服装喇叭口的丰满度，尤其是在上浆时。这种内衣所体现的奢华与其结构一样，既体现在它的维护性质上：需要大量的工作人员来压制和清洗容易被玷污和起皱的亚麻布和白色。与乔治"博"布鲁梅尔完美无瑕的淀粉领饰一样，这款白色棉质内衣被掩盖为简单和看似谦逊的谦虚。
介绍（英）	This underdress is poised between a period of classicism, with its columnar silhouette, and eclectic romanticism, with its burgeoning skirt forms. Made of plain white cotton with an applied hem of broderie anglaise, the dress has been trimmed with fine self-piping along the seamlines of its bodice. Originally catalogued as a finished dress because of its fully constructed sleeves and the fineness of its detailed workmanship, it was more likely intended to be worn under another dress of some transparency. The dress is sewn completely by hand, the horizontal tucks above the applied hem done painstakingly after the skirt's front and back panels were sewn together. Such tucking was a common feature of undergarments in the period and served as a decorative means to shorten the length of a skirt without cutting away material. The tucks, by fortifying the lower perimeter of a petticoat or skirt, also reinforced the fullness of the garment's flare, especially when starched. The luxury such an undergarment embodies is as much in the nature of its maintenance as its construction: a substantial staff was required to press and launder linens and whites that were so easily sullied and wrinkled. As with the immaculately starched neckpieces of George "Beau" Brummell, this white cotton underdress was status masked as simplicity and seemingly self-effacing modesty.