下午礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	下午礼服
品名（英）	Afternoon dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.1000a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1863 - 公元 1867
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	在南北战争期间，军服对女性着装的影响在这里显而易见。妇女们很容易在她们的穿着方式中反映出她们的爱国主义精神，以帮助鼓励士兵走向胜利。裙子上以玫瑰花结结尾的带子让人想起军事仪式上的胸饰和装饰，而肩部和袖子的装饰则取自军事夹克上的条纹和肩章 19世纪中期的女性轮廓包括合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙。锥形裙发展于19世纪30年代，当时帝国轮廓的高腰被降低，裙子变得更像钟形，直到19世纪60年代末，裙子的丰满度被拉到了后面，热闹起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增大，并得到了许多方法的支持。最初的支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，衬裙被由羽衣、藤条和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的衬裙所取代。这段时间的时尚让纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰也相对较少。
介绍（英）	The influence that military uniforms played on women's dress during the years of the Civil War is evident here. Women reflected their patriotism readily in their mode of dress to help encourage the soldiers on to victory. The bands ending in rosettes on the skirt are reminiscent of swags and decorations at military ceremonies while the shoulder and sleeve decorations are taken from stripes and epaulets on military jackets. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.