头饰 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	头饰
品名（英）	Headdress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.1106
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1790 - 公元 1810
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件物品来自Natalia de Shabelsky（1841-1905）的收藏，她是一位俄罗斯贵族，被迫保留她认为正在消失的祖国民间艺术传统。她游历了整个大俄罗斯，收集了许多富农阶级纺织艺术的优秀范例。从19世纪70年代到1902年移居法国，沙贝尔斯基收集了大量刺绣精美的手工编织家用纺织品和装饰丰富、图案精致的节日服装。布鲁克林博物馆的藏品包括许多精美的例子，包括大部分服装。沙贝尔斯基的部分藏品也收藏在波士顿美术博物馆、克利夫兰美术馆和圣彼得堡俄罗斯民族志博物馆头饰或kokoshniks是俄罗斯所有服装中装饰最丰富的。它们通常是用镀金金属线编织的锦缎或用金色刺绣的天鹅绒制成的。富裕的农民阶层经常用珍珠和宝石装饰他们的kokoshniks。这款新娘头饰的制造商采用了传统的设计图案，如后冠上的生命之树、女神、前面板上象征好运的对置鸟，以及新娘的首字母缩写。它是在奥卡河畔的卡卢加省采集的，那里有丰富的淡水珍珠。珍珠额边编织得如此精细，就像织物一样移动。头饰的嵌缝绣得很重，红色的天鹅绒地面几乎看不见。工艺和材料的质量，再加上这件作品的精致，表明新娘来自一个富裕而重要的家庭。
介绍（英）	This object is from the collection of Natalia de Shabelsky (1841-1905), a Russian noblewoman compelled to preserve what she perceived as the vanishing folk art traditions of her native country. Traveling extensively throughout Great Russia, she collected many fine examples of textile art of the wealthy peasant class. From the 1870s until moving to France in 1902, Shabelsky amassed a large collection of intricately embroidered hand-woven household textiles and opulent festival garments with rich decoration and elaborate motifs. The Brooklyn Museum holdings include many fine examples including the majority of the garments. Portions of Shabelsky's collection are also housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, the Cleveland Art Museum, and the Russian Museum of Ethnography in St. Petersburg. Headdresses, or kokoshniks had the greatest abundance of ornamentation of any type of garment in Russia. They were most often made of damask woven with gilt metallic threads or velvet with gold embroidery. The wealthy peasant class often decorated their kokoshniks with pearls and gemstones. The maker of this bridal headdress employed traditional design motifs such as the tree of life on the back caul, the goddess, the confronting birds on the front panel symbolizing good luck, as well as the bride's initials. It was collected in the Kaluga Province on the Oka River, where freshwater pearls were abundant. The pearl forehead ruffle is woven so finely that is moves like fabric. The caul of the headdress is so heavily embroidered that the red velvet ground is nearly invisible. The quality of workmanship and materials combined with the elaborateness of this piece suggest the bride was from a wealthy and important family.