哀悼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	哀悼服
品名（英）	Mourning dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.1157a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1894
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件衣服曾经由英国维多利亚女王（1819-1901）穿过，正如1894年女王抱着曾孙爱德华八世（1894-1972）的照片所记录的那样。它从女王服装的年度销售中购买，展示了她从丈夫阿尔伯特亲王（1819-1861）去世到她自己去世时所穿的传统哀悼服装。简单的白色装饰和礼服上最少使用的皱褶绉表明一种半哀悼的状态，尽管这是她丈夫去世 33 年后。上身采用较轻的材料，在夏季提供舒适感，整件衣服内外细节精美。黑色丧服在维多利亚女王统治期间达到顶峰。她设定了标准，在半生中穿着哀悼。有了这些标准，在为亲人或君主悲伤时，从三个月到两年半的任何地方穿黑色被认为是一种社会必需品。严格的社会习俗适用于所有阶层，并且以所有价位提供。那些负担不起换衣服的人经常改变和染成黑色的普通服装。要穿的黑色数量由几个不同的哀悼阶段决定;完整的哀悼合奏是纯黑色的，而半哀悼允许佩戴者添加少量的白色或紫色。
介绍（英）	This dress was once worn by Queen Victoria (1819-1901) of the United Kingdom, as documented in an 1894 photograph of the Queen holding her great-grandson, Edward VIII (1894-1972). Purchased from an annual sale of the Queen's garments, it shows the traditional touches of mourning attire, which she wore from the death of her husband, Prince Albert (1819-1861), until her own death. The simple white trim and minimal use of crinkled crepe on the dress indicate a state of half mourning, although it is 33 years after her husband's death. The bodice is of a lighter material to allow for comfort during summer months and the entire garment is finely detailed inside and out. Black mourning dress reached its peak during Queen Victoria's reign. She set the standard by wearing mourning for half of her life. With these standards in place, it was considered a social requisite to don black from anywhere between three months to two and a half years while grieving for a loved one or monarch. The stringent social custom existed for all classes and was available at all price points. Those who could not afford the change of dress often altered and dyed their regular garments black. The amount of black to be worn was dictated by several different phases of mourning; full mourning ensembles were solid black while half mourning allowed the wearer to add a small amount of white or purple.