晚装斗篷 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚装斗篷
品名（英）	Evening cape
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.140
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	Emile Pingat【1860 至 1896】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1885 - 公元 1889
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	Emile Pingat热衷于设计精心完成的连衣裙和外套，这使他成为19世纪下半叶法国三大时装设计师之一。 Pingat活跃于1860年至1896年之间，擅长将多种纺织品和装饰品加工成有凝聚力和高级的服装。他受到其他文化设计元素的启发，并经常将它们重新诠释到自己的作品中，使它们独一无二且引人入胜。他精心装饰和无可挑剔的剪裁外套特别受追捧。喧嚣的廓形是任何 1880 年代女性衣橱的流行风格。这款斗篷模仿了这种轮廓，让穿着者保持她下面连衣裙所创造的形状。宝蓝色天鹅绒的丰富色彩让人联想到最初的佩戴者，在那个时候，他们被视为需要持续关注和帮助的珍贵珠宝。这种无助感也反映在斗篷没有袖孔上，这将限制轻松的行动。 Pingat对装饰的处理完成了服装的奢华品质，在垂直线条中自由应用凸花蕾丝，强调穿着者的雕像式但有些被移除的外观。
介绍（英）	Emile Pingat had a proclivity for designing carefully finished dresses and outerwear which made him one of the top three French fashion designers during the second half of the 19th century. Active between 1860 and 1896, Pingat was adroit at manipulating multiple textiles and trimmings into a cohesive and elevated garment. He was inspired by design elements of other cultures and often reinterpreted them into his own work, making them unique and intriguing. His elaborately decorated and impeccably tailored outwear was particularly sought after. The bustle silhouette was the prevalent style of any 1880s woman's wardrobe. This cape mimics that silhouette, allowing the wearer to maintain the shape created by her dress underneath. The rich color of the royal blue velvet is evocative of the original wearer who at that point in time would have been seen as a precious jewel who required continual attention and assistance. That perceived helplessness is also reflected in the cape's lack of armholes, which would limit easy mobility. Pingat's treatment of the trim completes the luxurious quality of the garment with a liberal application of guipure lace in vertical lines emphasizing the statuesque, but somewhat removed, appearance of the wearer.