头饰 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	头饰
品名（英）	Headdress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.1715
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1800 - 公元 1850
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件物品来自Natalia de Shabelsky（1841-1905）的收藏，她是一位俄罗斯贵族，被迫保留她认为正在消失的祖国民间艺术传统。她游历了整个大俄罗斯，收集了许多富农阶级纺织艺术的优秀范例。从19世纪70年代到1902年移居法国，沙贝尔斯基收集了大量刺绣精美的手工编织家用纺织品和装饰丰富、图案精致的节日服装。布鲁克林博物馆的藏品包括许多精美的例子，包括大部分服装。沙贝尔斯基的部分藏品也收藏在波士顿美术博物馆、克利夫兰美术馆和圣彼得堡俄罗斯民族志博物馆头饰或kokoshniks是俄罗斯所有服装中装饰最丰富的。它们通常是用镀金金属线编织的锦缎或用金色刺绣的天鹅绒制成的。富裕的农民阶层经常用珍珠和宝石装饰他们的kokoshniks。它们的装饰元素代表了它们所处的地区。那些来自北方的人用该地区丰富的河珍珠装饰，而鹅绒和羊毛刺绣在南方更受欢迎。奥洛涅茨位于奥隆卡河上，诺夫哥罗德省有几条河流，珍珠装饰的大量使用证明了这一点。这种类型的头饰也可以在中世纪到19世纪的俄罗斯皇室肖像中看到。
介绍（英）	This object is from the collection of Natalia de Shabelsky (1841-1905), a Russian noblewoman compelled to preserve what she perceived as the vanishing folk art traditions of her native country. Traveling extensively throughout Great Russia, she collected many fine examples of textile art of the wealthy peasant class. From the 1870s until moving to France in 1902, Shabelsky amassed a large collection of intricately embroidered hand-woven household textiles and opulent festival garments with rich decoration and elaborate motifs. The Brooklyn Museum holdings include many fine examples including the majority of the garments. Portions of Shabelsky's collection are also housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, the Cleveland Art Museum, and the Russian Museum of Ethnography in St. Petersburg. Headdresses, or kokoshniks had the greatest abundance of ornamentation of any type of garment in Russia. They were most often made of damask woven with gilt metallic threads or velvet with gold embroidery. The wealthy peasant class often decorated their kokoshniks with pearls and gemstones. Their decorative elements were representative of the regions in which they were made. Those from the North were embellished with the river pearls that were plentiful in that area while goose down and woolen embroideries were more popular in the South. Olonetz is located on the Olonka River, and the province of Novgorod contains several rivers, as evidenced by the abundant use of pearl decoration. This type of headdress can also be seen in portraits of Russian royalty dating from the Middle Ages through the 19th century.