适合 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	适合
品名（英）	Suit
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.218a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1830 - 公元 1840
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这种夹克风格最初在 18 世纪后期被称为礼服外套，在白天和正式的晚上场合穿着，但宫廷除外，宫廷有自己的规定着装要求。在 18 世纪末和 19 世纪的前几十年，这种夹克搭配对比鲜明的彩色及膝马裤或裤子以及对比鲜明的背心。到了 1820 年代，像这样的配套西装更加普遍。 1830 年代的风格是由时尚的花花公子规定的，例如阿尔弗雷德·纪尧姆·加布里埃尔、奥赛伯爵（1801-1852），一位于 1829 年移居英国的法国移民，并在机智和穿着方面影响了艺术家和作家。规定的轮廓由饱满的胸部组成，通常通过衬垫或多件背心来增强，以及纤细的腰部（通常通过男士紧身胸衣实现）和纤细的裤腿。外套应该紧贴合，这导致夹克和尾巴被分开切割，以防止在腰部形成折痕。这套特别精良的服装展示了这一时期男装的所有整体品质，甚至包括D'Orsay传播的宽翻领。到本世纪中叶，这种风格的外套只被降级为正式的晚装，并以尾夹克的形式一直持续到 20 世纪。
介绍（英）	The dress coat, as this style of jacket was originally called in the late 18th century, was worn for day and formal evening occasions, with the exception of court which had its own prescribed dress code. Near the end of the 18th century and the first few decades of the 19th century this style of jacket was paired with contrasting colored knee breeches or trousers and a contrasting vest. By the 1820s, a matching suit, such as this one, was more common. The styles of the 1830s were prescribed by fashionable dandies, such as Alfred Guillaume Gabriel, Count D'Orsay (1801-1852), a French emigrant who had relocated to England in 1829, and influenced artists and writers in wit and dress. The prescribed silhouette was composed of a full chest, often enhanced by padding or multiple vests, and a slim waist, which was frequently achieved through a men's corset, and slim trouser-clad legs. The coat was expected to fit snugly which led to the jacket and tails being cut separately to prevent a crease from forming at the waist. This particularly well tailored ensemble exhibits all the integral qualities of men's wear of the period, even down to the wide lapels which were disseminated by D'Orsay. This style of coat was relegated solely to formal evening wear by the middle of the century and continued in the form of the tail jacket well into the 20th century.