步行连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	步行连衣裙
品名（英）	Walking dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.3336a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1863 - 公元 1867
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是一款精致的步行连衣裙，系上领带，将裙子拉至脚踝，让穿着者行走舒适。在19世纪60年代，通过将裙子拉成缎带环来调整裙子的长度以适应行走是很常见的。这会导致背部浮肿，通常需要从火车上调整更多的长度。后面的蓬松最终导致了19世纪60年代后期的喧闹轮廓的后面蓬松。这里展示的典型的19世纪60年代的宝塔袖特别优雅，内带优雅褶皱，与通常用于此类装饰目的的典型盒子褶皱不同 19世纪中期的女性轮廓包括合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙。锥形裙发展于19世纪30年代，当时帝国轮廓的高腰被降低，裙子变得更像钟形，直到19世纪60年代末，裙子的丰满度被拉到了后面，热闹起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增大，并得到了许多方法的支持。最初的支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，衬裙被由羽衣、藤条和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的衬裙所取代。这段时间的时尚让纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰也相对较少。
介绍（英）	This is a sophisticated walking dress with ties to pull the skirts up to ankle length, which allowed the wearer to walk comfortably. It was common in the 1860s for the length of the skirt to be adjusted for walking by being pulled up in ribbon loops. This would create puffiness at the back where more length generally had to be adjusted from the train. The puffing at the back eventually led to the back puff of the bustle silhouette which followed in the later 1860s. The typical 1860s pagoda sleeves represented here are particularly elegant with classy ruched inner bands, unlike the typical box pleating normally used for such decorative purposes. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.