来访礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	来访礼服
品名（英）	Visiting dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.630
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1845 - 公元 1850
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件来访连衣裙的有趣之处在于紧身胸衣上条纹的俏皮，它们创造了一种迷人的效果，而自滚边提供的图案进一步增强了这种效果。紧身胸衣、袖子和bertha的合身呈现出细长的流线型效果，这与之前十年的大袖子和高腰相反。这种风格强调了女性的不活跃，她们只能从事各种形式的手工工作，并发展了谈话艺术 19世纪中期的女性轮廓包括合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙。锥形裙发展于19世纪30年代，当时帝国轮廓的高腰被降低，裙子变得更像钟形，直到19世纪60年代末，裙子的丰满度被拉到了后面，热闹起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增大，并得到了许多方法的支持。最初的支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，衬裙被由羽衣、藤条和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的衬裙所取代。这段时间的时尚让纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰也相对较少。
介绍（英）	The interest of this visiting dress is in the playfulness of the stripes on the bodice which create a mesmerizing effect that is furthermore enhanced by the patterning offered by the self piping. The fit of the bodice, sleeves and bertha give an elongated streamlined effect which was contrary to the large sleeves and higher waist of the decade prior to it. The style emphasizes the inactivity of women who were relegated to various forms of handwork and developing the art of conversation. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.