晚礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚礼服
品名（英）	Evening dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.953a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1857 - 公元 1860
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件衣服是由捐赠者的祖母詹姆斯·邦纳·柯林斯夫人在白宫为詹姆斯·布坎南（James Buchanan，1791-1868 年）举行的招待会上穿的。裙子的褶裥中独特地包含素色条纹织物，增强了它的优雅。这些垂直条纹有助于提升和拉长已经引人注目的礼服。 19世纪中叶的女性剪影由合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙组成。圆锥形裙子在 1830 年代之间发展起来，当时帝国轮廓的高腰降低，裙子变得更加钟形，到 1860 年代后期，裙子的丰满度被拉到后面，喧嚣发展起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增加，并得到了多种方法的支持。最初，支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，这些衬裙被由鲸须、手杖和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的裙底所取代。这一时期的时尚使纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰相对较少。
介绍（英）	This dress was worn by the donor's grandmother, Mrs. James Bonner Collins, to a White House Reception for James Buchanan (1791-1868). Its elegance is enhanced by the unique inclusion of a plain stripe textile in the pleats of the skirt. These vertical stripes help elevate and elongate the already eye-catching gown. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.