外袍（Uchikake）配橘子和折叠纸蝴蝶 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	外袍（Uchikake）配橘子和折叠纸蝴蝶
品名（英）	Outer Robe (Uchikake) with Mandarin Oranges and Folded-Paper Butterflies
入馆年号	1976年，1976.108
策展部门	亚洲艺术（Asian Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1767 - 公元 1833
创作地区
分类	纺织品服装（Textiles-Costumes）
尺寸	整体: 69 1/2 × 48 1/2 英寸 (176.5 × 123.2 厘米)
介绍（中）	在正式场合，外袍或uchikake是在没有腰带的情况下穿着的。起源于镰仓时代（1185-11333），是高级武士女性的长袍，后来被更广泛地用作正式的冬装。在传统的结婚仪式中，婚礼和服外面会穿一件乌奇卡克。额外的衬垫被插入到下摆，以提供无缝的列车流动婚礼用吉祥的图案装饰，比如这里描绘的折叠纸蝴蝶，男女成对，代表新婚夫妇。附在薄纸条上的折叠纸蝴蝶也被用来装饰礼物，这可能是这种图案的起源。日语中的"蝴蝶"发音为chō，听起来像"长"的意思(長), 因此，这一主题也象征着一段漫长而幸福的婚姻。常青的柑橘树（tachibana）用扎染（shibori）在有图案的黑色绸缎锦缎（rinzu）地面上染色。青色、红色和金色的细节被添加到刺绣和金色沙发中。
介绍（英）	The outer robe, or uchikake, was worn without a sash over a kosode on formal occasions. Originating in the Kamakura period (1185–1333) as a robe for highranking samurai ladies, it later was used more widely as formal winter attire. In traditional marriage ceremonies, an uchikake is worn over a wedding kimono. Extra padding is inserted into the hem to provide a seamless flow of the train. Wedding uchikake are decorated with auspicious motifs, such as the folded-paper butterflies depicted here in pairs, male and female, to represent the newly wedded couple. Folded-paper butterflies attached to thin strips of paper were also used to adorn presents and may be the origins of this pattern. “Butterfly” in Japanese is pronounced chō, which sounds like the word for “long” (長), so the motif also symbolizes a long and happy marriage. The evergreen mandarin orange tree (tachibana) is executed in tie-dye (shibori) on a patterned black silk satin damask (rinzu) ground. Teal, red, and gold details are added in embroidery and gold couching.