饰针 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	饰针
品名（英）	Brooch
入馆年号	2016年，2016.107
策展部门	美国之翼（The American Wing）
创作者	Marcus and Co.【1892 至 1942】【美国人】
创作年份	公元 1900
创作地区	制造于: 美国, 纽约, 纽约（Made in: United States, New York, New York）
分类
尺寸	长: 3 英寸 (7.6 厘米)
介绍（中）	这枚精美的胸针是纽约Marcus&；公司（Tiffany&；赫尔曼·马库斯（1828-1999）是一位出生于德国、在德累斯顿接受过培训的珠宝商，1850年来到纽约，在成立Marcus&；公司成立于1892年。在他去世后，公司在他的两个儿子乔治·埃尔德·马库斯和威廉·马库斯的指导下继续运营胸针是Marcus&；Marcus&；公司效仿了勒内·拉里克（RenéLalique）等富有创新精神的法国设计师。甜豌豆花和叶子的敏感三维雕刻，以及珐琅的自然色彩，反映了世纪之交盛行的新艺术美学。事实上，路易·康福特·蒂芙尼（Louis Comfort Tiffany）出色的自然主义作品可以与之相提并论，他的作品在大都会博物馆的收藏中有着很好的代表性。
介绍（英）	This exquisite brooch is one of the few extant examples of plique-à-jour jewelry made by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., whose reputation at its prime rivaled that of Tiffany & Co. Herman Marcus (1828–99), a German–born and Dresden–trained jeweler, arrived in New York in 1850 and worked for a number of prestigious firms before establishing Marcus & Co. in 1892. Following his death, the company continued under the direction of his two sons, George Elder Marcus and William Marcus. The brooch is a superb example of Marcus & Co.’s work in plique-à-jour enameling, in which the "cells" of color have no backing, allowing light to shine through the transparent enamel, thereby creating the effect of stained glass.One of the only jewelry firms of its day to succeed at this challenging technique, Marcus & Co. followed the lead of such innovative French designers as René Lalique. The sensitive 3-dimensional sculpting of the sweet pea blossoms and leaves, as well as the naturalistic coloring of the enamels, reflects the Art Nouveau aesthetic that prevailed at the turn of the century. Indeed, close parallels can be drawn with the brilliant naturalistic work of Louis Comfort Tiffany, whose oeuvre is so well represented in the Met’s collection.