法式连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	法式连衣裙
品名（英）	Robe à la Française
入馆年号	1999年，1999.41a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1765 - 公元 1775
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	法国长袍，敞开式长袍和衬裙，是18世纪的经典服饰。17世纪70年代服装的特点是低领口、合身的紧身胸衣、带双层袖口的窄袖，以及麻袋背和由围兜支撑的臀部丰满。这个精美的例子是用一种罕见的中国出口丝绸制成的，这种丝绸可以追溯到18世纪第一季度。这种织物是一种象牙色的"奇异"图案锦缎（通过颠倒编织结构，使缎面的经面和纬面都在同一表面上）早在16世纪末，中国工匠就为欧洲市场生产丝绸，这些丝绸由英国、法国和荷兰的东印度公司出口。由于东西方工匠设计图案的交流，中国出口丝绸往往与中国传统美学没有什么关系。虽然这种图案锦缎与18世纪第一季度流行的欧洲"奇异"丝绸非常相似，但织边宽度、织物重量和织边标记都表明是中国制造的。为了充分欣赏这件连衣裙的奢华，人们可以想象烛光在其表面产生的运动感。
介绍（英）	The robe à la française, with open robe and petticoat, was the quintessential dress of the eighteenth century. Characteristic of 1770s costume are the piece's low neckline, fitted bodice, narrow sleeves with double layered cuffs, as well as the sack back and fullness at the hips supported by panniers. This exquisite example is constructed from a rare Chinese export silk dating from the first quarter of the eighteenth century. The textile is an ivory "bizarre" patterned damask (created by reversing the weave structure so that both the warp-float and weft-float faces of the satin are on the same surface). As early as the late sixteenth century, Chinese craftsmen created silks for the European market, which were exported by the East India companies of England, France, and Holland. Due to the exchange of design motifs by both Eastern and Western artisans, Chinese export silks often bore little relation to traditional Chinese aesthetics. While this patterned damask closely resembles the European "bizarre" silks popular during the first quarter of the eighteenth century, the selvedge-to-selvedge width, fabric weight, and selvedge markings all indicate Chinese manufacture. To fully appreciate the sumptuousness of this dress, one might imagine the sense of movement candlelight would have created across its surface.