连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	连衣裙
品名（英）	Dress
入馆年号	2002年，2002.252a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1872 - 公元 1875
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件夏季礼服代表了 1870 年至 1875 年喧嚣廓形的第一个时期，在 1876 年至 1881 年间消失，于 1882 年回归，并以修改形式幸存到 1889 年。与 1880 年代的重软垫胸罩礼服不同，这件连衣裙反映了形式的过渡性质，源自 1860 年代的伞形克里诺林风格。最早的胸围连衣裙似乎是早期的宽裙礼服，没有绯红的箍，由此产生的大量织物拉到后腰部，形成一个大蒲团或胸襟。虽然新的轮廓似乎将女性从早期箍的束缚中解放出来，但裙子仍然需要框架支撑。克里诺林只是变得更加圆柱形，其结构更靠近腿的前部，并在后部远离身体。通常，腰部附有小枕头、线圈，甚至藤制羊角面包状篮子，以突出臀部并支撑箍和裙子的体积。这款 Mull 礼服的脆弱通风掩盖了紧身胸衣的严格限制以及悬臂箍和假底的工程结构，这些结构创造了它的轮廓。
介绍（英）	This summer gown represents the first period of the bustle silhouette, 1870 to 1875, which disappears between 1876 and 1881, returns in 1882, and survives in modified form until 1889. Unlike the heavily upholstered bustle gowns of the 1880s, this dress reflects the transitional nature of the form, which derived from the umbrella-shaped crinoline styles of the 1860s. The first bustle dresses appeared to be earlier wide-skirted gowns deprived of their crinoline hoops, with the resulting plenitude of fabric pulled up to the back waist creating a large pouf, or bustle. While the new silhouette appeared to free women from the encumbrance of the earlier hoops, the skirt still required a framed support. The crinoline simply became more cylindrical and was structured to align closer to the front of the legs and pull away from the body at the back. Commonly, bustle pads-small pillows, wire coils, even rattan croissant-like baskets-were attached at the waist to accentuate the buttocks and support the volume of the hoop and skirt. The fragile airiness of this mull gown belies the rigorous constraints of the corset and the engineered structure of cantilevered hoops and false bottoms that created its silhouette.