Uçetek Entari和Shalvar - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	Uçetek Entari和Shalvar
品名（英）	Uçetek Entari and Shalvar
入馆年号	1938年，C.I.38.99.1a, b
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1875 - 公元 1899
创作地区	制造于: 土耳其（Made in: Turkey）
分类	主礼服女装（Main dress-Womenswear）
尺寸	Kaftan a: 长 54 英寸 (137.2 厘米) Trousers b: 长 45 英寸 (114.3 厘米)
介绍（中）	奥斯曼帝国的女装通常由三个主要元素组成，一件衬衫或gömlek，一件长袍或entari，和一条宽松的裤子或şalvar。这件entari和şalvar由时尚奥斯曼女性的两个元素组成（这两件衣服最初可能不是同一套衣服的一部分，因为经销商可以从他们单独购买的衣服中组装衣服，尽管在这种情况下，这两件东西在调色板和装饰上有着密切的对应关系）。深紫色的entari是一种在欧洲非常流行的色调，1856年发明了一种合成染料，用于创造一种被称为mauvine的颜色。紫色丝绸织物的编织结构与奥斯曼帝国作坊中编织的丝绸不同，这表明它是从外国进口的。虽然只有科学的分析才能确定确切的染色过程，但颜色的使用表明穿着者对当前时尚的意识 entari是沿着传统的线条建造的，正面向下敞开，长袖一直开到肘部，两侧都有高高的开缝。紧身胸衣上有四个纽扣和环。袖子的下半部分衬有与服装外部相同的织物，外边缘衬有深红色织物，由丝绸和棉花混合而成。entari的其余部分衬有白色棉布。这件衣服的所有边缘都用金属金线编织而成的复杂打结的辫子进行了修剪一种不同但在视觉上相关的紫色丝绸织物的şalvar，其设计是由花朵或几何元素组成的交替垂直带，用额外的纬线金属包裹，尺寸过大。每条腿的腰部和底部都使用了棉质平纹细布，并用领带将多余的宽度聚集起来，以适合穿着者。长腿会被绑在膝盖以下，让şalvar的腿在脚踝周围优雅地翻腾。金属金色编织物修饰两侧和腰部与臀部齐平的口袋开口。
介绍（英）	Women’s dress in the Ottoman Empire typically consisted of three main elements, a chemise or gömlek, a long robe, or entari, and baggy trousers, or şalvar. This entari and şalvar comprise two elements of the ensemble of a fashionable Ottoman woman (the two pieces might not have been originally part of the same outfit as dealers could assemble outfits from the pieces they acquired separately, although in this case, there is a close correspondence in color palette and trim between the two pieces). The deep purple color of the entari is a shade that became extremely popular in Europe with the 1856 invention of a synthetic dye used to create a color known as mauveine. The purple silk fabric has a different weave structure than silks woven in Ottoman workshops, suggesting that it was imported from a foreign source. While only scientific analysis can determine the exact dye process, the use of the color indicates an awareness on the part of the wearer of current fashions. The entari is constructed along traditional lines, open down the front, with long sleeves open until the elbow and high slits at each side. It closed at the bodice with four buttons and loops. The lower part of the sleeves are lined with the same fabric used on the garment exterior, and the outside edges are faced with a dark red fabric, a blend of silk and cotton. The rest of the entari is lined in white cotton. All of the garment’s edges are trimmed with an intricate knotted braid made of metallic gold thread. The şalvar of a different but visually related fabric of purple silk with a design of alternating vertical bands comprised of floral or geometric elements executed in extra weft metal-wrapped thread are oversize. A cotton muslin fabric was used at the waist and bottom of each leg, with ties to gather the excess width to fit the wearer. The long legs would have been tied below the knee to allow the şalvar legs to billow gracefully around the ankles. Metallic gold braid trims the hip level pocket openings on each side and the waist.