悦榕 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	悦榕
品名（英）	Banyan
入馆年号	1978年，1978.135.1
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1775 - 公元 1785
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	对于家居服，绅士有一件睡袍，通常搭配配套的背心，还有一顶脱衣帽或头巾。至于马裤，它们不是专门为这种休闲套装设计的，而是借鉴了其他西装。睡袍剪裁得像男人的宽松外套，通常挂在地板上，尽管也有停在膝盖以下的版本。由于没有紧固件，穿着者在走路时将睡袍重叠在前面，以免两侧在他身后翻滚。袖子最初向后卷成袖口，但后来的睡袍展示了他们那个时期的时尚袖口。在英国，这些睡袍被称为"榕树"或"印度睡袍"，因为它们的和服状形式和东方血统。榕树由各种织物制成，包括丝绸锦缎、锦缎和印花棉。冬季榕树偶尔会被绗缝以增加温暖。绅士们穿着榕树服装接待朋友，以表明他们的非正式和与访客的亲密关系。到了 1780 年代，绅士们穿着这种舒适时尚的服装走出门。据1785年的《城乡杂志》报道："从瓦平到威斯敏斯特，镇上的每个地方都穿着榕树，如果偶尔戴上剑，它就会从后面的缝隙中间伸出来。然而，这就是时尚，吨位，男人能做什么？他必须穿榕树。这颗黄色锦缎榕树以其大胆的中国齐本德尔图案为灵感，在伦敦的街道或客厅里会是一个壮观的景象。
介绍（英）	For at-home wear, a gentleman had a dressing gown, often with a matching waistcoat, and an undress cap or turban. As for breeches, they were not designed especially for this casual ensemble, but rather borrowed from other suits. The dressing gown was cut like a man’s loose coat and usually hung to the floor, though there were also versions that stopped below the knees. Since there were no fastenings, the wearer overlapped the dressing gown in front when he walked so that the sides did not billow out behind him. The sleeves were originally rolled back to form cuffs, but later dressing gowns display the fashionable cuff of their period. In England these dressing gowns were called "banyans" or "Indian nightgowns" because of their kimono-like form and Eastern origin. Banyans were made in a variety of fabrics, including silk brocades, damasks, and printed cottons. Winter banyans were occasionally quilted for extra warmth. Gentlemen received friends while attired in banyans as a sign of their informality and of their intimacy with the visitor. By the 1780s gentlemen ventured out of doors in this comfortable and stylish costume. According to Town and Country Magazine in 1785: "Banyans are worn in every part of the town from Wapping to Westminster, and if a sword is occasionally put on it sticks out of the middle of the slit behind. This however is the fashion, the ton, and what can a man do? He must wear a banyan." This yellow damask banyan with its bold Chinese Chippendale – inspired pattern would have been an imposing sight on the streets or in the drawing rooms of London.