表演团体 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	表演团体
品名（英）	Ensemble
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.2322a–c
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1800 - 公元 1899
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件物品来自Natalia de Shabelsky（1841-1905）的收藏，她是一位俄罗斯贵族，被迫保留她认为正在消失的祖国民间艺术传统。她游历了整个大俄罗斯，收集了许多富农阶级纺织艺术的优秀范例。从19世纪70年代到1902年移居法国，沙贝尔斯基收集了大量刺绣精美的手工编织家用纺织品和装饰丰富、图案精致的节日服装。布鲁克林博物馆的藏品包括许多精美的例子，包括大部分服装。沙贝尔斯基的部分藏品也收藏在波士顿美术博物馆、克利夫兰美术馆和圣彼得堡俄罗斯民族志博物馆（a）俄罗斯传统服装由笔直流畅的线条组成。从18世纪之交开始，无袖连衣裙sarafan成为俄罗斯北部和中部地区最受欢迎的农妇服装。这个sarafan的主题包括草莓，这是民间传说中的一个重要象征。草莓代表着纯洁和谦逊，也代表着肥沃和丰饶（b）在18世纪的萨拉凡，这里看到的长袖连衣裙成为俄罗斯北部和中部农民阶层中最流行的女装形式。sarafan下穿的衬衫是独一无二的，因为它的袖子非常长，聚集在手腕上。与传统的头饰一起，这套服装以其对比鲜明的红蓝和慷慨的金色装饰做出了大胆的声明（c）已婚妇女被要求完全遮住头发，以免被认为是不道德的；他们戴着法塔斯，通常是一种白色的薄纱面纱，上面编织着丝绸花卉图案和金色刺绣。这些有时与头饰或kokoshnik一起佩戴。传统的婚俗在16世纪广泛流行，并在一些偏远地区持续到20世纪初，对针线活非常重视。年轻女性通常在结婚前几年就开始生产纺织品，这些纺织品将作为礼物赠送给未来的丈夫及其家人。这些礼物向她未来的家庭证明了这位少女的技能和勤奋，主要包括带宽刺绣边框的毛巾和chirinka，或刺绣的口袋手帕。
介绍（英）	This object is from the collection of Natalia de Shabelsky (1841-1905), a Russian noblewoman compelled to preserve what she perceived as the vanishing folk art traditions of her native country. Traveling extensively throughout Great Russia, she collected many fine examples of textile art of the wealthy peasant class. From the 1870s until moving to France in 1902, Shabelsky amassed a large collection of intricately embroidered hand-woven household textiles and opulent festival garments with rich decoration and elaborate motifs. The Brooklyn Museum holdings include many fine examples including the majority of the garments. Portions of Shabelsky's collection are also housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, the Cleveland Art Museum, and the Russian Museum of Ethnography in St. Petersburg. (a) Traditional Russian costume consists of straight, flowing lines. Beginning at the turn of the 18th century, the sarafan, a long, sleeveless dress, became the most popular article of peasant women's clothing in the Northern and Central regions of Russia. The motif on this sarafan includes strawberries, a significant symbol in folklore. The strawberry denotes purity and modesty, as well as fertility and abundance. (b) In the 18th century the sarafan, the long sleeveless dress seen here became the most prevalent form of women's clothing among the peasant class of Northern and Central Russia. The shirt worn under the sarafan is unique for its extremely long sleeves gathered onto the wrist. Together with the traditional headdress the ensemble makes a bold statement with its contrasting red and blue and generous gold ornamentation. (c) Married women were required to cover their hair entirely lest they be considered immodest; they wore fatas, usually a white muslin veil woven with silk floral designs and gold embroidery such as this. These were sometimes worn with a headdress, or kokoshnik. The traditional wedding customs that were practiced widely in the 16th century and lasted in some remote areas into the early 20th century placed great importance on needlework. Young women often began years before their marriage to produce the collection of textiles that would be presented as gifts to their future husband and his family. These gifts offered proof of the maiden's skill and industriousness to her future family, and consisted mostly of towels with wide embroidered borders and chirinkas, or embroidered pocket handkerchiefs.