晚装斗篷 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚装斗篷
品名（英）	Evening cape
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.3828
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	House of Worth【1858 至 1956】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1895
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是沃斯之家的标志性作品。沃斯对历史决定主义的兴趣是显而易见的，在这种情况下，也有文献记载。该斗篷是一件16世纪西班牙骑马斗篷的直接复制品，在1903年该物品被出售给纽伦堡博物馆之前，沃斯曾获得该斗篷或拥有该斗篷。这种风格被选为1895年4月13日《时尚芭莎》的封面，宣传强调了时尚短斗篷的重要性 Charles Frederick Worth出生于英国，年轻时在伦敦的纺织商工作，同时在博物馆研究艺术史。1845年，他搬到巴黎，做过推销员和裁缝，1858年与奥托·博伯格合作开设了沃斯和博伯格裁缝店。他们很快就得到了皇室的认可，并取得了重大成功。1870年，沃斯成为该公司的唯一所有者。在他的店里，沃斯制作了完整的作品，然后用现场模特向客户展示。然后，客户可以根据自己的规格订购他们最喜欢的产品。这种方法是高级定制的起源。沃斯设计的礼服是一件艺术作品，通过精心挑选的纺织品和装饰完美地展现了色彩和纹理。他在每件衣服上使用的纺织品数量之多证明了他对纺织业的尊重和支持。沃斯的创作成果在他的一生中一直保持着其水准和知名度。这项业务在他的儿子、孙子和曾孙的指导下持续了20世纪上半叶让-菲利普·沃斯于1875年开始担任父亲查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃斯的助手。渐渐地，他被允许创作自己的设计，当他的父亲于1895年去世时，他成为了这所房子的首席设计师。他因在独特的纺织品上制作精致的艺术礼服而受到赞扬，就像他父亲在他之前一样。尽管在世纪之交，沃斯之家仍然受到皇室和名人的青睐，但1900年后，他们的风格不再是法国时尚的前沿。1910年左右，让-菲利普将他的设计工作限制在重要订单上，并聘请他的侄子让-查尔斯·沃斯担任新的首席设计师，然后在第一次世界大战后完全离开公司。
介绍（英）	This is an iconic piece from the House of Worth. Worth's interest in historicism is evident and, in this case, documented. The cape is a direct copy of a 16th-century Spanish riding cape which Worth was either given access to or owned prior to the item being sold to the Nuremberg Museum in 1903. The style was chosen as the cover of "Harper's Bazaar" for the April 13, 1895 issue and the publicity emphasized the importance of the fashionable short cape. Charles Frederick Worth was born in England and spent his young adulthood working for textile merchants in London while researching art history at museums. In 1845 he moved to Paris and worked as a salesman and a dressmaker before partnering with Otto Bobergh to open the dressmaking shop, Worth and Bobergh, in 1858. They were soon recognized by royalty and major success followed. In 1870 Worth became the sole proprietor of the business. At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture. Worth designed gowns which were works of art that implemented a perfect play of colors and textures created by meticulously chosen textiles and trims. The sheer volume of the textiles he employed on each dress is testimony to his respect and support of the textile industry. Worth's creative output maintained its standard and popularity throughout his life. The business continued under the direction of his sons, grandsons and great-grandsons through the first half of the twentieth century. Jean-Philippe Worth began as an assistant to his father, Charles Frederick Worth, in 1875. Gradually he was allowed to create his own designs and when his father died in 1895, he became the lead designer for the house. He was praised for making elaborate artistic gowns with intricate trimmings on unique textiles, much like his father had before him. Although the House of Worth was still favored by royalty and celebrities through the turn of the century, their styles were no longer the forefront of French fashion after 1900. Around 1910 Jean-Philippe limited his design work to important orders and hired his nephew, Jean-Charles Worth, as the new lead designer before leaving the company entirely after World War I.