佩利斯（Pelisse） - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	佩利斯（Pelisse）
品名（英）	Pelisse
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.629
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1818 - 公元 1822
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是19世纪初最经典的女式外套。由于当时时尚的本质，佩利塞必须非常合身和剪裁，以更好地覆盖下面长袍的无形织物。因此，它们往往非常时尚，并遵循帝国服饰的路线。蓬松袖子中的历史参考和辫子装饰的军事影响表明了这个例子中的时间和巧妙的执行帝国的轮廓很容易被识别为起源于古希腊罗马人的奇顿，这是一种从肩膀上披下来的管状服装，有时系在半身像下面。在整个服装史上，曾发生过几次重新诠释，但没有一次像18世纪的长方形帕尼尔裙和19世纪的圆锥形环裙那样引人注目。法国大革命后，新古典主义风格被采用在所有形式的装饰中，并在拿破仑战争期间得到支持，部分原因是拿破仑·波拿巴（1769-1821）与希腊罗马原则的联盟。在时尚界，这种风格始于由优质白色棉制成的童装，但被女性采用的形式是管状连衣裙，裙子聚集在胸部下方，背部垫上有一些丰满感。随着风格的发展，裙子的前部开始变平，仅从中后部的紧身胸衣开始聚集。这种风格一直延续到19世纪20年代，当时腰部慢慢降低，裙子变得更像钟形。
介绍（英）	This is the quintessential women's outerwear garment of the early 19th century. Due to the nature of the fashions of the time, the pelisse had to be very fitted and tailored to better cover the insubstantial textile of the gowns underneath. Therefore they tended to be very fashionable and follow the lines of Empire dress. The historical references in the puffed sleeves and the military influences of the braid trim here are indicative of the time and masterfully executed in this example. The Empire silhouette is readily identified with its origins in the chiton of ancient Greco-Romans, which was a tubular garment draped from the shoulders and sometimes belted beneath the bust. Several re-interpretations have occurred throughout costume history but none have been as notable as the period bridging the rectangular panierred skirts of the 18th century and the conical hoop skirts of the 19th century. The neoclassic style was adopted in all forms of decoration after the French Revolution and was upheld during the Napoleonic Wars partly due to Napoleon Bonaparte's (1769-1821) alliance with Greco-Roman principles. In fashion, the style began as children's wear made from fine white cotton, but was adopted by women in the form of a tubular dress with skirts that were gathered under the bust with some fullness over a pad at the back. As the style progressed the skirts began to flatten at the front and solely gather from the bodice at the center back. The style persisted until the 1820s when the waist slowly lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped.