晚礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚礼服
品名（英）	Evening coat
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.78
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	House of Worth【1858 至 1956】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1890 - 公元 1898
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件制作精良的外套完美地展示了裁缝的艺术。其独特的剪裁与微妙的黑色色调相得益彰，而besom口袋和珠饰钩眼开合则为这一时期营造出有趣的触感。查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃思出生于英国，年轻时在伦敦为纺织品商人工作，同时在博物馆研究艺术史。 1845年，他搬到巴黎，担任推销员和裁缝，然后于1858年与Otto Bobergh合作开设裁缝店Worth and Bobergh。他们很快得到了皇室的认可，并取得了重大成功。 1870年，沃思成为该业务的独资经营者。在他的商店里，沃思制作了完成的作品，然后他用真人模特向客户展示。然后，客户可以根据自己的规格订购他们最喜欢的产品。这种方法是高级时装的起源。Worth设计的礼服是一件艺术品，通过精心挑选的纺织品和装饰创造了完美的色彩和纹理。他在每件衣服上使用的纺织品数量之多证明了他对纺织业的尊重和支持。沃斯的创作作品在他的一生中一直保持着其标准和受欢迎程度。在他的儿子、孙子和曾孙的指导下，生意一直持续到二十世纪上半叶。让-菲利普·沃思于1875年开始担任他父亲查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃思的助手。渐渐地，他被允许创作自己的设计，当他的父亲于1895年去世时，他成为房子的首席设计师。他因在独特的纺织品上制作带有复杂装饰的精美艺术礼服而受到称赞，就像他父亲在他之前一样。尽管在世纪之交，沃思之家仍然受到皇室和名人的青睐，但他们的风格在 1900 年之后不再是法国时尚的前沿。 1910年左右，Jean-Philippe将他的设计工作限制在重要的订单上，并聘请了他的侄子Jean-Charles Worth作为新的首席设计师，然后在第一次世界大战后完全离开公司。
介绍（英）	This well-crafted coat shows the dressmakers art perfectly. Its unique cut is enhanced by the subtle tones of black while the besom pockets and beaded hook and eye closure create an interesting touch for the period. Charles Frederick Worth was born in England and spent his young adulthood working for textile merchants in London while researching art history at museums. In 1845 he moved to Paris and worked as a salesman and a dressmaker before partnering with Otto Bobergh to open the dressmaking shop, Worth and Bobergh, in 1858. They were soon recognized by royalty and major success followed. In 1870 Worth became the sole proprietor of the business. At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture. Worth designed gowns which were works of art that implemented a perfect play of colors and textures created by meticulously chosen textiles and trims. The sheer volume of the textiles he employed on each dress is testimony to his respect and support of the textile industry. Worth's creative output maintained its standard and popularity throughout his life. The business continued under the direction of his sons, grandsons and great-grandsons through the first half of the twentieth century. Jean-Philippe Worth began as an assistant to his father, Charles Frederick Worth, in 1875. Gradually he was allowed to create his own designs and when his father died in 1895, he became the lead designer for the house. He was praised for making elaborate artistic gowns with intricate trimmings on unique textiles, much like his father had before him. Although the House of Worth was still favored by royalty and celebrities through the turn of the century, their styles were no longer the forefront of French fashion after 1900. Around 1910 Jean-Philippe limited his design work to important orders and hired his nephew, Jean-Charles Worth, as the new lead designer before leaving the company entirely after World War I.