儿童长袍 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	儿童长袍
品名（英）	Child's Robe
入馆年号	1955年，C.I.56.5.2
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1850 - 公元 1925
创作地区	归属于: 可能来自巴尔干半岛（Attributed to: possibly from the Balkans）
分类	主礼服童装（Main dress-Childrenswear）
尺寸	长 at CB: 47 1/2 英寸 (120.7 厘米)
介绍（中）	这件尺寸较小的长袍可能是为中产阶级或上层阶级的孩子或小女人准备的。这件连衣裙是一件奢华的服装，由奢华的米色绿色云纹丝绸面料制成，表面饰面具有独特的波浪形表面处理，羽毛状的叶子和花朵的重复图案，采用精致的玫瑰色、绿色或黄色的土色，并用丝绸绣花。虽然整体形状让人联想到19世纪和20世纪初的奥斯曼长袍，但轮廓分明的腰部和喇叭裙，以及缝制的个性化定制单品的紧身胸衣则指向了更西方的时尚传统。这些特征经常与巴尔干传统联系在一起。带有扇形双开衩的长装饰袖子，可以露出穿着者的汗衫，是巴尔干半岛的特色。这个例子中，袖子前面有一个三角形面板，呈现出一种不太常见的不对称和特别奢华的袖子版本。与巴尔干长袍中常见的典型帕塞门特里带不同，这个例子在铺设绳索技术中广泛装饰了重复的叶子图案，以标记前后、颈部和衣领的胸衣，以及扇形边缘、袖子和袖口。与巴尔干社区缝纫传统相关的另一种技术是将内衬标记在外部织物上的做法，尽管只能从内部看到。
介绍（英）	This robe with its smaller dimensions was probably intended for a child or a small woman from the middle or upper classes. A luxurious garment, the dress is made of lavish beige-green moiré silk fabric with the characteristic wavy surface finish and a repeat pattern of feathery leaves and flowers in delicate earthen-tones of rose, greens, or yellow finely embroidered in silk. While the overall shape evokes Ottoman entari robes of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the sharply defined fitted waist and flaring skirt, as well as the bodice sewn of individually tailored pieces point to a more western fashion tradition. Such features are frequently associated with the Balkan tradition. The long decorative sleeves with scalloped double slits, which would have revealed the wearer’s undershirt, is characteristically Balkan. This example with a triangular panel hanging down in the front of the sleeve presents a less common asymmetrical and particularly lavish version of sleeves. Instead of typical passementerie bands, common in Balkan robes, this example has been extensively decorated with a repeating leaf pattern in the laid cord technique to mark the bodice in the front and back, the neck and collar, as well as the scalloped edges, sleeves and cuffs. Another technique associated with the sewing tradition of the Balkan communities is the practice of tagging the inner lining to the outside fabric, although only visible from interior.