保持 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	保持
品名（英）	Mantua
入馆年号	1991年，1991.6.1a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1703 - 公元 1713
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	16世纪70年代末，女装风格出现了新的发展，这将在接下来的一个世纪产生深远的影响。以前女性穿的紧身紧身胸衣和裙子现在被曼图亚（mantua）取代，曼图亚是一种更宽松的长袍。曼图阿被认为展示了丝绸设计的最大优势，因为它们是悬垂的，而不是切割的；因此，人们相信这件衣服是以意大利的曼图阿命名的，那里生产昂贵的丝绸。然而，也有人认为这个名字来源于法语中的"外套" 斗篷是一种类似大衣的结构，袖子前后都切成一块。它的肩部打了褶，一直垂到腰部，用腰带固定住。从那里，它被折叠成一个繁忙的形状，并穿在一条相配的衬裙上。随着风格的演变，前部的褶皱数量减少，紧身胸衣被打开，躯干现在被一块倒三角形的加固织物覆盖，逐渐变细为细腰。这块布料被称为"胃"。早期的例子往往是错综复杂的。虽然这些礼服看起来相当结实，但实际上它们是用别针固定的，用来固定腹部最初是一种非正式的风格，因其不正式而被路易十四禁止进入法国宫廷，曼图阿逐渐成为人们接受的正式服装，并一直是英国宫廷服装的流行选择，直到本世纪中叶。它非常受欢迎，以至于裁缝被称为曼图阿制造者。
介绍（英）	The late 1670s saw a new development in the style of women's dress that would have a far-reaching effect throughout the following century. The stiff constricting boned bodice-and-skirt style previously worn by women was now replaced with the mantua, a more loosely draped style of gown. The mantua was thought to display silk designs to their best advantage, as they were draped rather than cut; as such, it is believed the garment was named after Mantua in Italy, where expensive silks were produced. However, it has also been suggested that the name derives from manteau, the French term for a coat. The mantua was a coatlike construction, with sleeves cut in one piece with the back and front. It was pleated at the shoulders and fell to the waist, where it was held in place by a sash. From there it was folded back into a bustle shape and worn over a matching petticoat. As the style evolved, the pleats at the front were reduced in number and the bodice was opened, with the torso now covered by a stiffened piece of fabric in the form of an inverted triangle, tapering into a narrow waist. This piece of fabric was known as a stomacher. Early examples are often intricately embroidered. While these gowns appear quite substantial, they were actually precariously fastened with pins to hold the stomacher in place. Originally an informal style, and banned for its informality from the French court by Louis XIV, the mantua gradually became acceptable as formal dress and remained a popular choice for court dress in England until the mid-century. Its popularity was such that dressmakers were referred to as mantua-makers.