Uçetek Entari或三裙长袍 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	Uçetek Entari或三裙长袍
品名（英）	Uçetek Entari or Three-Skirt Robe
入馆年号	1980年，1980.145.3
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1850 - 公元 1925
创作地区	制造于: 可能是巴尔干半岛或安纳托利亚（Made in: probably Balkans or Anatolia）
分类	主礼服女装（Main dress-Womenswear）
尺寸	长 at CB: 28 1/2 英寸 (72.4 厘米)
介绍（中）	这款 üçetek entari 或三裙长袍采用低领和长袖设计，末端装饰精美。这是十九世纪后期奥斯曼女性时尚服装的特征，中产阶级和上层阶级的女性在特殊场合穿着。这款长袍的垂袖仅从腋下到肘部缝合，这使得细图案和刺绣绿松石羊毛的衬里可以透出，并与主要面料的红色形成鲜明对比。穿在下面的衬衫也会沿着手臂或领口部分可见。带有装饰性腰带扣或细腰带的腰带可将腰部的内塔里固定在一起。虽然整体形状与伊斯坦布尔和安纳托利亚其他地区所穿的例子相对应，但长袍的细节与巴尔干传统相似。这款长袍的长袖末端是分体棕榈形袖口，边缘饰有扇形。广泛使用用金属线制成的帕森特里装饰带来标记裙子的部分、长袍的边缘和长袍的手臂，以及合身的腰部和加宽的裙子。服装的羊毛斜纹布点缀着 hüseyni 刺绣，以其奢华的丝绸、大量金属线和应用亮片而闻名，为服装提供了有吸引力的重复图案和闪闪发光的外观。在刺绣中使用合成染色丝绸表明其年代可追溯到十九世纪最后四分之一。这种精心刺绣的织物产自安纳托利亚西部的屈塔希亚和其他地方，在巴尔干社区中特别受欢迎。
介绍（英）	This üçetek entari or three-skirt robe has a low neckline and long sleeves with elaborately decorated ends. It is characteristic of an Ottoman woman’s fashionable outfit of the later nineteenth century and worn by women of middle and upper classes on special occasions. The hanging sleeves of this robe are only seamed from the underarm to the elbow, which allows for the lining of fine patterned and embroidered turquoise wool to show through and create a colorful contrast with the red of the main fabric. The shirt that was worn underneath would also be partly visible along the arms or the neckline. A belt with a decorative girdle clasp or a fine sash would hold the entari together at the waist. While the overall shape corresponds to examples worn in Istanbul and other parts of Anatolia, the details of the robe present similarities with those of the Balkan tradition. These robes have long sleeves ending in split-palmette shaped cuffs with scalloped edges. Extensive use of passementerie trim bands made with metal thread is applied to mark the sections of the skirt, the robe’s edges, and the arms of the robe, and a fitted waist and a widening skirt. The wool twill of the garment is embellished with hüseyni embroidery known for its lavish use of silk, large amounts of metal thread, and applied sequins, which provides the garment with an attractive repeat pattern and a glittery appearance. The use of synthetic dyed silks in the embroidery suggests a dating of the last quarter of the nineteenth century. Such elaborately embroidered fabrics were produced in Kütahya in western Anatolia, and in other places and were particularly popular among Balkan communities.