晚礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚礼服
品名（英）	Evening jacket
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.74
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	House of Worth【1858 至 1956】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1888 - 公元 1892
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是19世纪末模仿18世纪末男装的一个很好的例子。这件沃斯夹克巧妙地模仿了上个世纪宫廷服装的轮廓和炫耀的品质。非凡的喷射珠刺绣风格化，代表了过去精心制作的丝线刺绣，效果极佳 Charles Frederick Worth出生于英国，年轻时在伦敦的纺织商工作，同时在博物馆研究艺术史。1845年，他搬到巴黎，做过推销员和裁缝，1858年与奥托·博伯格合作开设了沃斯和博伯格裁缝店。他们很快就得到了皇室的认可，并取得了重大成功。1870年，沃斯成为该公司的唯一所有者。在他的店里，沃斯制作了完整的作品，然后用现场模特向客户展示。然后，客户可以根据自己的规格订购他们最喜欢的产品。这种方法是高级定制的起源。沃斯设计的礼服是一件艺术作品，通过精心挑选的纺织品和装饰完美地展现了色彩和纹理。他在每件衣服上使用的纺织品数量之多证明了他对纺织业的尊重和支持。沃斯的创作成果在他的一生中一直保持着其水准和知名度。这项业务在他的儿子、孙子和曾孙的指导下持续了20世纪上半叶。
介绍（英）	This is an excellent example of late 19th-century dress imitating men's wear of the late 18th century. This Worth jacket eloquently imitates the silhouette and the ostentatious quality of court costume of the previous century. The extraordinary jet beadwork embroidery is stylized to represent the elaborate silk floss embroidery of the past to great effect. Charles Frederick Worth was born in England and spent his young adulthood working for textile merchants in London while researching art history at museums. In 1845 he moved to Paris and worked as a salesman and a dressmaker before partnering with Otto Bobergh to open the dressmaking shop, Worth and Bobergh, in 1858. They were soon recognized by royalty and major success followed. In 1870 Worth became the sole proprietor of the business. At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture. Worth designed gowns which were works of art that implemented a perfect play of colors and textures created by meticulously chosen textiles and trims. The sheer volume of the textiles he employed on each dress is testimony to his respect and support of the textile industry. Worth's creative output maintained its standard and popularity throughout his life. The business continued under the direction of his sons, grandsons and great-grandsons through the first half of the twentieth century.