下午礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	下午礼服
品名（英）	Afternoon dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.928
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1843 - 公元 1847
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是19世纪40年代中期一件制作精美的连衣裙。重要的亮点和非常精细的服装制作细节是紧密贴合和成型的袖子，收在肘部内侧以塑造形状和运动，袖子内侧接缝、袖子末端和肩部接缝处的精细滚边，以及腰部非常精细甚至均匀的筒状褶皱。这些元素与细长的腰部和V形半身相结合，创造了那个时代的经典风格 19世纪中期的女性轮廓包括合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙。锥形裙发展于19世纪30年代，当时帝国轮廓的高腰被降低，裙子变得更像钟形，直到19世纪60年代末，裙子的丰满度被拉到了后面，热闹起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增大，并得到了许多方法的支持。最初的支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，衬裙被由羽衣、藤条和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的衬裙所取代。这段时间的时尚让纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰也相对较少。
介绍（英）	This is a very finely made example of a mid 1840s dress. The significant highlights and very fine dressmaking details are the tightly fitted and shaped sleeves, tucked at the inner elbow for shape and movement, the fine piping that is at the inner sleeve seam, sleeve ends and shoulder seams, and the very fine and even cartridge pleating at the waist. These elements combined with an elongated waist and V-shaped bust create a quintessential style of the period. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.